Where the Horses Swim
On Barbados’ Pebbles Beach, racehorses train in the ocean.
JULY 8, 2025
Every morning at dawn, on the shores of Pebbles Beach, Barbados, a captivating ritual takes place. Guided by their grooms, racehorses wade into the sea to train and stretch their muscles in the cool saltwater. Most of the horses come from the nearby Garrison Savannah, one of the oldest horse racetracks in the Americas and the Caribbean; others are from local stables or from smaller farms across the island.
At the beach, the routine starts with a practice known as lunging, in which the horse travels in a circle around the groom’s rein handle in the shallows. In deeper water, the groom will push his body against the horse to train its resistance. Afterward, the groom guides the horse into open waters, hanging from its neck, as the horse swims out, sometimes for miles. Tourists and locals alike gather at the beach as the sun rises to catch a glimpse of the daily exercises. When the groom and the horse get back to shore, the groom scrubs down the horse before both head back to the stables and get ready to start training at the track.
Horse racing came to Barbados in 1845: Members of the British Army, who were stationed at Garrison Savannah, would race their horses against those of the sugar-cane plantation owners. Horse racing has since become an important part of Bajan culture and islanders take great pride in the tradition. Races are organized by the Barbados Turf Club and take place at the historic Garrison Savannah racetrack every Saturday. Big races, like the Boxing Day Race, sell out quickly, and for a couple of hours, the island’s attention shifts from its relaxing beaches to the excitement of the racetrack.
A man and horse glide beneath the Caribbean Sea. The daily ritual helps the horses prepare for races and recover from the strain of training.
At dawn, sometimes as early as 4 a.m., grooms and their horses take over Pebbles Beach. Curious tourists and locals gather on the beach to watch.
Hayden, who has been a horse groom since he was 16, scrubs down Dream Lake after a swim. He feeds, cleans and looks after two horses between training and races.
A groom guides a horse into the sea. To help the horse stretch and warm up, the groom pushes his body against the horse's chest.
Jammin, one the oldest grooms on the island, returns from swimming in the open waters with his horse.
Daffy, a horse groom, is one of the first to arrive at Pebbles Beach. The beach’s proximity to the racetrack and the lack of strong currents make it ideal for the horses’ water exercises.
Back at the stables, Hayden rinses Dream Lake with fresh water. He will then take the horse to the racetrack where a trainer will prepare it for the next race.
Spectators begin to fill the Garrison Savannah racetrack ahead of the annual Boxing Day Race — one of the island’s most popular events. Most people arrive at the racetrack several hours before it starts to secure their spot and place bets.
The Boxing Day Race includes eight separate races. The viewing area is packed, and there's an atmosphere of celebration and anticipation.
On his way back from the beach, Daffy passes the Barbados Turf Club, the organization that regulates horse racing in Barbados.
Two children celebrate Bajan jockey Jeremiah Worrell and his horse Gunsmoke before the fourth race of the Boxing Day Race.
This photo essay was originally published in Gatopardo.